11. If you’ve gotten here and none of the above has worked, it may be time to get out your trusty old over-sized hammer and simply kill the screw… Kill it dead. It wouldn’t budge. This is where a wise wrencher would take out the EZ-Out and throw it aside, because EZ-outs are notoriously weak. Though screw extractors are one of the least costly extras you can add to your toolbox, they often prove priceless if and when you face a fastener that refuses to budge. Sometime the screw extractors just bugger everything to the point of drilling and re-threading. That looks like it might respond to a combination of penetrating oil followed by drilling all the way through the bolt with a small bit and then increasing the bit size until you’ve hit the largest size possible without damaging the threads. I would like to remove the bolt leaving the threads in the flange, otherwise I need to get the bolt out and drill the threads out of the CI.
2 Tap out trigger plate (58) and attached assembly. Lift trigger plate assembly away, while lifting out cocking slide (46). Trip (41) and its internal assembly will also drop out. 4. Drill screw out (which you may have to do anyway when your extractor breaks). Once the head is off and the piece is removed, enough of the shaft of the screw should be exposed (assuming you didn’t drill it too deep); now use needle-nose pliers to get the shaft of the screw out. Sometimes the rubber will give you the extra grip needed to get that screw out. Often there is plenty of grip available for a flat-head screw driver of the right size in a stripped cross-head screw. In a low-pressure die application, the die can remain on the extruder during purging until there is a complete change from the processing resin to the purging resin. It is important to remember that when too much torque is applied in the extractor, it can break inside the bolt that’s supposed to be extracted. If that’s the set you have, skip the punching and drilling step. Many times, drilling the hole in the screw will be enough to loosen it as the pressure is released, and you will be able to ease it out with little force on the extractor.
Start by picking the right size extractor bit for the screw you’re removing and then chuck it into your drill driver with the burnishing end facing out and switch your drill drivers transmission to reverse. Finally, attach the opposite, square-shaped end of the extractor either to an electric drill or a T handle. 5 Remove (A) unhooking slide screw (56) and withdraw unhooking slide (62) and assembly from front end of trigger plate. Use a small wood dowel inserted into forward part of receiver (28) and just in front of cocking crank (17) where a portion of the foremost surface of trigger plate may be seen. If your screw is broken off flush with the surface of the wood, you will have to do one of two things. Measure the shaft to see if at least 1/4 inch of it is above the surface. Pick a nut that is about the same size as the screw head or at the least such that the diameter of the hole in the middle of the nut is smaller than the diameter of the hole in the screw.
6. If you’ve gotten the screw partially up and the head is exposed, get a pair of needle-nose clamping pliers or at the least try a pair of non-clamping needle-nose pliers. Many a time my trusty needle-nose clamping pliers have got me out of a “stripped screw” situation. Then, use the screwdriver as normal to pull out the screw. Pry shell away from tang at (B) using a small screwdriver or hardwood wedge. Using a reverse twist drill may free the broken bolt without the need for an extractor. If you’re using a burnishing/extractor double-ended bit, you’ll need to kick your drill into reverse to use it properly. Use cutting oil on your drill bit. Since the threads are reversed on the extractor bit, turning it counterclockwise will tighten the bit into the hole in the bolt. 2. Or use a rotary tool with a diamond-head bit to cut a trough around the screw.