Turn the pliers to release the screw from the material, and pull out the screw. Turn the screw counterclockwise so that it begins to loosen. The impacts knock the screw loose a bit while you are trying to turn it free. Instead of using a screw extractor, use a sharp center punch near the perimeter of the broken part. Easy out screw extractors are one of the solutions that a mechanic might use in order to remove a screw that has become stripped. The rear trigger guard screw was missing. This new screw is positioned so that by aligning the hole in the rear of the trigger guard with the welded metal, you can now drill & tap this steel for 1/4 X 28 (or 1/4″ National Fine) threads. If you copy the head shape of the front guard screw (which is the same size threads) with the taper under the head, you can get your new screw to fit. This screw length can be the same as the front screw which has 1″ under the head.
The front guard screw & the barrel band screw had to be put in a milling machine & mill the heads off the screws in order to remove the & save what was left of that wood conservatively called a gunstock. Using a screw extractor involves drilling into metal. They are designed for precision drilling in metal, wood and plastic. Nylon webbing that uses the loop thru type plastic retainers. The early ribs were made of metal while the later ribs are plastic. While I featured the ROCKETSOCKET in the “best bolt extractor” category, I was also considering the more affordable Irwin Hanson BOLT-GRIP set which offers good quality as well. This pretty well insures that the base & receiver are drilled in unison. All the metal was well coated with a protective coating of DEEP rust. When I made this purchase, you could distinguish some rifling hiding between the heavy rust inside the barrel.
The ejector spring was so weak (& in backwards) that it was inoperable & the ejector pivot pin so seized in the receiver so bad that it required a Acetylene torch’s heat to be able to break the rust loose so it could be removed. The firing pin spring was weak enough that some cartridges (after rebarreling) would misfire. A new heavy duty Wolff firing pin spring was purchased & installed correcting that problem. This can be done without disassembly of the trigger unit & still protect the temper of the sear spring because of the lesser heat required for that type of welding. Also this trigger unit is riveted together & not made to be readily disassembled. 7/16″ X 1/2″ was brazed onto the rear of the trigger housing. This length of steel was selected to give a larger area for fiberglass bedding at this area as there is no other real stock bearing surface at the rear & yet not interfere with functioning of the trigger.
Since this action does not have any real flat bottom to align it rotationally, you will need to do this pretty much by eye. Most can be made from scrap metal, some will cost you a bit because they’re specialized and the market for them is small. After the threads have been removed, the threaded opening can be tapped to the right size again. If the part that you need to access is inside the barrel or is too narrow for this tool then the workman’s compass is the right tool, not this. 3) center drill so that you have about .100 metal under the screw head to the bottom of the base is about right. Be sure that this screw is short enough as to not bottom out making for a loose base. Two times I have ground the bolt flush with the manifold (both sides)took a small tip in my cutting torch, heated the bolt shaft and blown the inside out.